Lebanon

The Middle East has interested me for some time. Unfortunately, travel to some countries in the region would be… unwise…

I’ve worked with a few Lebanese-Australians in various jobs and each of them, after hearing my stories of travel in Southeast Asia, said that Lebanon would be my cup of tea.

And so I went.

Because of its location between Europe and the Arabian peninsula, Lebanon is a country with an ancient and turbulent history. It shows a very strong influence from both cultures. I don’t think there are too many cities besides Beirut where you could be enjoying a beer at a rooftop bar while the mosque down the street broadcasts the call to evening prayer.

The people are amazingly friendly and accommodating, exhibiting that famous Mediterranean hospitality.

Lebanon is a country which was until recently at war, and the presence of military patrols and checkpoints as well as bullet-scarred buildings were reminders of the country’s strife in the not-too-distant past. Even now there are tensions at the southern border with Israel, and the presence of Daesh (ISIS) in neighbouring Syria is a constant worry.

I stayed mainly in Beirut but had a couple of days in Baalbek in the east of Lebanon where there are some of the best preserved ancient Roman ruins in the world. Unfortunately I didn’t get to see much else of this beautiful country due to becoming ill for about a week. I’m determined to make it back sometime soon to explore more.

Beirut building damaged by gunfire.

Beirut building damaged by gunfire.

French colonial building in Beirut

French colonial building in Beirut

French colonial building in Beirut

Pigeon Rocks, Beirut

The Mediterranean coast

Mohammad Al-Amin Mosque, Beirut

Interior of Mohammad Al-Amin Mosque

New residential towers in downtown Beirut

Roman ruins, Baalbek

The temple of Bacchus in Baalbek

Beta Valley view from the Roman ruins in Baalbek

The temple of Bacchus in Baalbek

Mosque in Baalbek

What’s left of the Holiday Inn in downtown Beirut. Used as a sniper position during the Lebanese Civil War. The building has been condemned and has been empty for decades.

French colonial building in Beirut

Beirut pizza shop in a building damaged by the war.

A street in Hazmiyeh, a neighbourhood in southern Beirut

A street in Hazmiyeh, a neighbourhood in southern Beirut

A street in Hazmiyeh, a neighbourhood in southern Beirut

A street in Hazmiyeh, a neighbourhood in southern Beirut

New residential tower in downtown Beirut

A Timeless Beauty

SAVANNAKHET, LAOS – Sometimes it’s good to go back. There are occasions when revisiting a place after an absence of years brings back good feelings of nostalgia.

It’s this nostalgia that I’ve been basking in for a few days now.

In the early 20th century, Savannakhet was an important French trading post in southern Laos. As a result, there are plenty of examples of French colonial architecture scattered throughout the old quarter of the town.

This is the part of Savannakhet that I’ve spent most of my time in. I’ve found myself very inspired by being in this place, and have discovered a few little cafés that provide not only excellent coffee, but a quiet area in which I can write.

I’ve written more in the last few days than I have in the last few months, which is a good thing.

There isn’t much of a nightlife here, only one or two drinking spots that are more like restaurants than bars. It’s more the atmosphere of Savannakhet that is the main appeal of the town. Sadly, the Lao government does not seem all that interested in preserving the old colonial buildings, and many of them are in terminal decay.

Another change that has come to Savannakhet is the opening of the Friendship Bridge which spans the Mekong River, giving much more convenient access to Thailand. The highway which runs across Laos between Thailand and Vietnam has seen an increase in traffic and trade, but the old quarter is relatively untouched, having changed little since my last visit in December 2004.

Progress is good, but not when it comes at the cost of destroying history. For me, the old French buildings in Savannakhet are part of the town’s charm (just as it is in Battambang). It would be very sad to see these things slowly crumble into dust.

I love Savannakhet, and when I leave here, it will be with strong reluctance. I just hope that it’s not another six years before I can come back to this beautiful town.

Truth in Genre

Anchor What?

Well, we’re still in Cambodia. Tomorrow we’re getting a bus to the “wild west” town of Poipet and crossing over into Thailand. With luck we will arrive in time for a train back to Bangkok.

Still trying to put into words the way in which this country affects me. I’ve never been somewhere that has such a sad history. Then of course there’s the ancient splendour of the temples around Siem Reap. Angkor Wat is the best known of these, and I have to say that it truly is an incredible place. It was built in the late 1100s as a temple to Vishnu, and served as a Buddhist monastery in the 16th century. There were hundreds of tourists/travellers there when we visited three days ago, but even so it’s so peaceful there it’s like another world. There are about 800 meters of old bas-releif carvings depicting scenes from history and Hindu mythology. Climbing the stairs to the central tower would have Sir Edmund Hillary thinking twice. To be in a place so old when my country is so young is quite an experience.

Another experience, far less fun, is cycling 12 kilometers in total darkness. Well… it wasn’t total all the time. :) I had 2 tyre blowouts yesterday, the second one taking place about 5 minutes to sundown. It cost US$2 to have a new tyre fitted, but then we had to ride back in the dark. Fortunately we had an escort for several kilometers, 2 local blokes on a motor scooter kindly shared their illumination with us until we got to a road with some streetlights.

Jen and I moved house to the lodgings annex of the Dead Fish Tower restaurant. And there are more crocodiles there! Much smaller, but more active. One jumped and hissed at me as I strolled past the pit, and I nearly leapt into orbit.

My trip is drawing to a close. :( But we still have a few days in Bangkok before I fly out for a night in Hong Kong.

That’s about it for now. Take care.

Cheers,
Paul C./Karsoe